Emei Shan and the habits of tourists, in two parts

Emei Shan is one of the Four Sacred Buddhist mountains in China, treated by many as a pilgrimage. At its summit, 3099m, is an impressive temple and spectacular views. There are many other smaller temples and pagodas dotted round the mountainside. It would take several days to explore fully.

It’s a major tourist attraction of course, with a steep entrance price. All the major paths up the mountain are paved and for a pretty penny you can get a bus ride to near the top, and a cable car even closer. 

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Part 1.

You climb hundreds of stairs up a mountain in tottering heels and a tight crocheted skirt to be ready for the inevitable photo-op at the summit. I admire your dedication.

You reach the top. Time to look holy.

Standing on the temple steps, arms raised to the sky. The photograph will appear to have caught you in a moment of joyous adulation.

Or hands together palm to plam in front of the magnificent Buddha. Did you think to offer a prayer as you posed?

It’s make believe.
When you look back on the photo, if you ever do, will you see yourself praying or posing?

And yet I do admire the frivolity, the silliness. You know it’s just an act and maybe you know not to take yourself too seriously.

I stand with my back to the crowds and look out over the view I’ve spent my morning climbing towards. The view is mostly clouds, from above. A rare experience to admire the cloud from the other side.

“Hello!”
“Hello. Hello!”
The repetition makes me turn around. A man is shooing me off. He wants a photo of his friend alone against the skyline, as if the hundreds of other tourists are not really there.
I scowl.
I turn back around to admire the view again, but my peace in shattered now so I leave them to their suspended disbelief.

On the way back down the stairs we dodge round dawdellers who are attempting to video chat as they walk.

The sections of path between the bus stop off points, the cable car and the major accessible sights are rammed with people. There are countless stalls renting coats to those who didn’t anticipate a cooler climate at +3000m.

Away from the main sections the paths are almost deserted. We pass barely a dozen people over the course of a few hours.

Where did the other people go?
Is it true they just collect selfies in front of major landmarks and then scarper?
What happens when you collect the full set?

All your photos exclaim – look world, I was here!
But I’m not sure you were.

And was I?
Or was I too busy judging you all?

***

Part 2.

After spending a few weeks at altitude Jamie and I discovered the joy of bounding up the steps leading up and down the mountain with significantly more oxygen at our disposal.

Legs feeling strong, lungs healthy, we took the little steps two at a time overtaking all the other tourists. On the way down we practised what we termed stair spinning – almost tipping ourselves down the stairs, feet pitter-pattering as we stay on tiptoes. It’s fast, and it’s quite fun.

Now, two days on I can barely walk. I can cycle fine, but when I have to put my foot down, to stop for example, I almost topple over with the pain.

I feel foolish. I thought I was fit, but it turns out I can just ride my bike.

More work needed.

Instagram post by Maria * Nov 3, 2018 at 12:55pm UTC

28 Likes, 1 Comments – Maria (@mariamazyoung) on Instagram

 

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